{Shikoku Hachijūhachikasho Meguri}

--WALKING--
--TELEPHONE & INTERNET CONNECTIVITY--

When it comes to connectivity from the henro trail to the outside world, i have to tell you that there is both good news and bad news. The bad news first.

The Bad News
If you are not bringing your own computer, PDA, or smart phone, public internet connectivity is hard to find on Shikoku. There are some internet cafes in the bigger cities, particularly the provincial capitals (Tokushima, Kōchi, Matsuyama, & Takamatsu), but you'll have to look for them as they aren't obvious. Luree Schneider (Known Henro) says that there are "International Centers" in the major cities and that these will have both public access to the internet and newspapers in English so you can catch up on the news. Anthony Kimple (Known Henro) says that some bookstores and gaming arcades have internet access for ¥400 to ¥700 per hour. But, basically, while you are on the trail, outside of the four provincial capitals, forget about public access to the internet and email.


The Rest of The Story
If all you want is some way to make room reservations each day and/or talk to family and friends in the outside world, telephones are everywhere on the island. It doesn't matter where you go, or how rural the area is, you will be able to find a telephone. While not all phones allow international calls, you can find pay phones in restaurants, coffee shops, gas stations, bus & train stations, post offices, phone booths along the road, and many more places.

As mobile phone usage increases, public phone booths are becoming rarer, so in very rural areas you may find yourself walking quite awhile before seeing one. But, in towns they can still be found everywhere.

Many minshuku owners will let you use their phone in the morning to call another minshuku to make that night's reservation. Just ask; i've never been told no. Many minshuku, ryokan, and hotels will also have a fax machine so you might be able to send and receive faxes (for a fee) from these places as well.

Telephone Cards vs Coins
Telephones accept both coins and pre-paid phone cards. If you opt for coins, there is a good chance that you are going to find yourself getting cut off quite often unless you carry a lot of change and can feed the phone as fast as it uses them. This is avoided by carrying the phone card. These can be purchased in some vending machines and at kiosks at train stations, but the most convenient place to buy them is at one of the several million convenience stores located around the island. Telephone cards are pre-paid cards and come with fixed amounts on them, with the vast majority of the one's you'll find along the route being sold for ¥1,000. They are the size of a credit card, as thin as a business card, bendable, and plastic.

When you insert a phone card in the slot of a telephone, the phone will display how much money is left on the card. You can also get a good idea of how much is left by looking at the back of the card. A time scale is printed along the bottom of the back side of the card and just before it is ejected after each phone call, the telephone will punch a small hole along the line of numbers to indicate approximately how much money is left. If your card runs out of money before you complete your call, it will be ejected and you have only a few seconds to insert a new one before your call is disconneted. When the the card is ejected at the end of your call, the phone will beep to remind you to take it with you. The cards are not reusable so when one is used up, just throw it away.

A word of advice: if you are going to be using public phones, buy a telephone card even before you set out from Tokushima. Forget about trying to use coins; the cards are just too convenient and easy to find.


Types of Telephones
Telephones in Japan are color coded so that it is easy to figure out which one to use, even from a distance. There are about four different colors of phone, depending on their use, but the two that you will most commonly use are green and gray. Green phones are found everywhere — you'll find them in convenience stores, grocery stores, department stores, restaurants, bus and train stations, on the street in front of all of these, and in phone booths along the side of the road. Gray phones are harder to find in rural areas, but they are there.

All green phones accept coins, but not all of them accept a phone card (although most do). When using coins, you use either ¥10 or ¥100 coins. A ¥10 coin will last about one minute (depending on how far your are calling) and just seconds before it runs out you will hear a beep. If you get another coin in the slot within seconds, you stay connected; if you don't you get cut off. You can feed up to six ¥10 coins into the phone at one time. If you pre-feed several ¥10 coins at the start of your call, but don't use them all, they will be returned at the end of your call. A ¥100 coin will last about 10 minutes (again, depending on how far you are calling), but if you don't use it all during your call, change will not be returned.

Green phones are mainly used for calls to other desinations inside Japan and not all of them can be used to make international calls — in fact, most can not be. If they can be, this will be indicated on a gold plaque somewhere on the face of the phone.


Gray phones, like the green variety, can be used to make local calls, but all gray phones can also be used to make international calls. They accept either coins or telephone cards.

While they are hard to find (if not impossible) in the very rural areas, they are found in most cities and towns of any size, and in some phone booths along the highways in between. In the cities, look near the train & bus stations, near the post office, and near the city or town hall. Or, just keep walking; sooner or later you'll come across one.




Emergency Phone Numbers
Two phone numbers to keep in mind: 110 is for police emergencies and 119 is for medical and fire emergencies. While i'm not positive, i think that 120 is the prefix for free numbers, like 800 in the US.


Mobile Phone Rental: Expensive, but...
There is one obvious solution to staying in touch with family and friends while on the trail — rent a mobile phone. I have never done this, so can't vouch for any of the below.





OLD INFORMATION, but i don't want to delet it

The information below was valid back before most of you even heard of the henro trail, but, just like the rest of the world, mobile phone usage on Shikoku has become the predominate way of communicating so public phones are disappearing. That makes the information in this section almost worthless. In any case, while there may still be a few phone booths out there that allow you to plug in and connect, what computer has a dial-up card in it anymore? None, i think.

Sooner or later i'll just delete all of this information. I can't make myself do it yet, so will just leave this note.


Given everything i've said above about public access to the internet being limited, in fact, the internet is somewhat accessable and very affordable — if you are willing to bring your own laptop or PDA, and when you can find a conneection point. GOL (www.gol.com), an internet service provider in Japan, has connection numbers all across the country. There don't seem to be any access numbers on Shikoku, but there are in cities on the mainland just across the Inland Sea. They offer an inexpensive account that they call 'GOL SuperLight' and this gives you connectivity for up to 5 hours a month There is a set-up fee if you sign up via mail or fax, but this waived if you sign up online. You have to pay by credit card. If you connected every day, this would give you 10 minutes of connectivity each day, and that should be plenty of time if you use the service wisely, but there will be days where you can't find anywhere to connect, so that gives you more minutes per day on average.

I subscribed to this service through their web page on the internet before leaving for Japan in 1999 (and cancelled it over the internet after returning home) and they charged my credit card directly so i didn't have to worry about how to pay the monthly fee while on the trail. During my walk, i uploaded my journal to this web site most nights of the week. While i had to call Honshū to connect, there were dialup numbers in several cities along the Inland Sea between Okayama and Hiroshima and this kept the phone charges to a minimum.

As i have said above, you connect by plugging into data ports found in gray public telephones in phone booths along the side of the road and at many other locations. Bck in 1999, i was able to find a phone to connect most nights, and probably uploaded new diary entries to this web page four of the seven nights each week. Because mobile phones have taken over the world, there is less and less need for these data jacks, so the gray phones are quickly disappearing. In 2008, i would guess that i saw about 4-5 gray phones in phone booths along the road. If you still try this option, you'll want a phone card to pay the phone charges, and you can buy these cards at alost every convenience store you pass.

How to actually connect to the internet
Follow the setup instructions on the GOL web site to set up your computer with the dialup numbers before leaving from home. Once on Shikoku, when you are ready to connect, find a phone booth with a gray telephone in it. Then follow these simple steps:

  1. Find the data port on the telephone. It is probably near the bottom and behind a clear plastic cover.
  2. Plug your computer into the data jack with a standard telephone/modem cable.
  3. Select "Data Communications" on the LCD menu on the telephone.
  4. Insert your phone card in the slot on the telephone.
  5. Tell your computer to dial the dialup number. Once it makes the connection,
  6. Open your favorite ftp client and upload your data — if you are updating web pages, pictures, etc.
  7. Open your favorite email client to download email to you and to send mail to others. Then,
  8. Disconnect.
DO NOT read your email while connected as then you would eat up your entire monthly allotment of minutes in a week or two. As soon as your email has been downloaded, disconnect and end the call. Read your mail while offline wherever you are staying for the night. Reply, and save your replies. Then, when you connect the next time, your replies will upload at the same time you download any new messages.

For those of you that only use web mail from services like Yahoo!, Google, or Hotmail, this is a different story. You have to stay connected to read your mail. If you are willing to pay the extra money after going over your 300 minutes each month, just do email as you normally would at home. If you want to read mail as often as possible and yet not go over your 300 minute monthly allotment, here is my recommendation.

Obviously, i think it is much simpler and less time consuming to use Outlook, Outlook Express, Eudora, Thunderbird, or some other email client while on the road. But, this assumes you have an email address that can be downloaded to an email client. If not, you can probably buy one from GOL or your normal ISP for the few months you are on the trail.


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